its funny though i wonder how htc feels about pimax only being fully functional and using their parts.
at ces you could clearly see the vive logo being advertised with tje pimax on the show floor.
how many casuals must have been confused by that?
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Which 3d peint vendor did you get? And which settings? Could not find for less than 40€
Yes I found the pegged version to be the best by far. The other one falls off easily. Now if only they can work out the bugs in their software and firmware.
Just finished printing. @Dr.Cube thx.
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Hi.
How much force should be needed to remove the rubber?
Do you have to press at certain spots at the same time?
Mine does not come off “easily”, pulled quite hard already i thought.
Thanks.
Wow…that is one comfortable looking headset! And where did you get the fans? Do they weigh much? Thanks for the vrcover link, I’m going to check that out…I can only wear the original bra for about 20 minutes before I can’t stand it any longer…
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Hmm if you pull on one of the sides it should come off fairly easily.
I’m going to try and post a new version tomorrow of the side adapters that can be printed sideways. Hopefully that will make it more robust.
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The fans are from Vive n Chill (https://www.vivenchill.com/), and you’ll need to get a USB C adapter to connect it to Pimax headsets (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ will work if you trim some of the plastic off the connectors to slim them down). They don’t add any noticeable weight to the headset.
Added side adapter version that can be printed on its side. Should be stronger then the old version. No supports needed.
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Oh man, I broke one of the rod hinges on my headset trying to install the adapter 
I don’t know if Pimax has made any redesigns to the plastic cover that you’re supposed to pull out from the headset to get at the rods? I’m a pre-order buyer (not a backer) and the plastic just wouldn’t come off - seriously! The amount of force I was putting in was really pushing the limits of totally breaking the entire housing apart. This is how much I managed to get off:
It just wouldn’t come off no matter how hard I pulled, pushed or twisted in all angels and places of the headset. So then I tried to just push the side clips onto the headset rods anyway, like Tyriel Wood does in his instruction video, and that’s when one of the hinges on my headset broke.
@Dr.Cube I really appreciate the work you’ve put in to making and sharing this adapter, but I would strongly recommend you or someone else revising the design of the side clips by switching sides of the hinge opening from inside to outside, so that you can click them into place more easily and safely, in case new owners find themselves in my situation. Like so:
Hopefully I can superglue the headset hinge and rod back into place, but it seems I’m in limbo with mounting the DAS at the moment as I can’t get the plastic cover off the headset, nor push the side clips adapters into place without breaking the headset hinges. I’m open to more specific instructions on how to do it if anyone has any. Otherwise I’ll just have to make a wish that @Dr.Cube or someone else would be kind enough to do the redesign I suggested (as I don’t have the skills for it).
Edit:
I’m also curious if the 3D print I got (I ordered from thingverse) was too tight? The side clips fit perfectly to the DAS, but now that I have the headset hinge rod in my hand I can barely push it into the side clip from the side (as if pushing it into a tunnel). The side clip really clamps tight on the rod in relation to the original metal clips for the head strap that comes with the headset - they’re a fairly loose fit while still staying in place. How snugly does your side clips fit on the metal rods? Can you rotate the side clips easily on it, or are they basically clamped down on it?
Appreciate anyone replying with ideas, and be careful if you’re about to install this mod so you don’t make the same mistake as I did! 
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You can try the ones I designed, no need to remove the stock clips.
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Shit man that really sucks.I’m sorry it broke. The original versions are a very tight fit. The new version I uploaded is a much more loser fit and can be attached without having to remove the face mask.I personally think it looks a lot nicer as well.You can also try the design g-coded posted above.
I hope they didn’t make it so you can’t remove the face mask since its a nice feature. The face mask can be kind of hard to pull off around the part where the hinges are. You want to start pulling it off around the nose area and then forehead area and work your way to the sides.
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Hey, that’s a nice, safe way to do it @g-coded. Have you had any issues with the lock part coming out? I’m considering going with some double sided mounting tape to connect the side clips to the original hinge brackets, but maybe I should be patient and order your design instead…
No worries @Dr.Cube! I knew it could happen by the amount of force I was putting in and tried it anyway. It stopped me from doing the same thing to the face mask. Maybe that was a good thing in the end 
Superglue seems to have fixed the hinge, so hopefully no harm done in the end.
Has the new version replaced the old design in the original thingverse link, or where do I find it? And when did you upload it? I ordered the print last friday.
I uploaded them on Tuesday. They were added to the same thingiverse link. They are the last two files on the download page.
No issues here, one person mentioned their tabs were a little loose.
Just finished printing these… Thanks Dr.Cube. Still waiting for g-coded’s design to finish printing…
3D printing is 60% science, 20% art, and 20% guess work. Each printer will print differently and the filament used will also impact the print. I’m not talking different materials, I’m talking different batches of PLA and how it was stored before it was used. Very rarely can you print something and it just works. You will spend time using cutting tools to shape and cleanup areas. If you print with supports you need to do a good job cleaning up the supported area. If you don’t use supports an angled part can deform as it is printing. The deformation might not even be noticeable.
If the clips are fitting too tight just take an appropriate sized drill bit and auger out the holes a little.
I’m printing g-coded’s adapters now too and will see how they fit once done.
My pimax just showed up. I was able to get the stock clips off and the new clips on without removing the rubber seal. All I did was just push in on the rubber a bit and the clips popped off. I then did a little trimming on the V1 short replacement clips with a hook knife and they popped right on no issues at all. I needed to trim the sides a bit and took a little of the curvature off from the hook.
In my case, g-coded’s design looks awesome but like you said, it’s not exact science. I couldn’t get the holes to line up so that the peg can secure them in place. The left bit is slightly better aligned than the right bit. I’m curious to see if the design can be tweaked a bit for better alignment since the idea is very good.
I think each part should be split into two pieces, with the bottom part that sits closer to the Pimax unit having an indentation for the peg on the upper half or outer half but the inner half should have the DAS swivel peg that goes through the outer half and the outer half have the peg that goes through the loop and pegs into the inner half thus the two are connected and held in place by the DAS itself. I wonder if that can be done.