MOD ergonomically perfect facial foam

MOD ergonomically perfect facial foam

Tired of putting supplements in thick facial foam to try to adapt it to my face and the correct distance and inclination for me, I have created a mold of my face on light air drying foam, and the result is perfect ergonomics, you put on the HMD and it goes to the right place without having to move or squeeze it. It also provides much more stability in fast movements. Being somewhat rigid, nothing moves once the HMD is on. As it has the shape of your face even if it is not very soft, you notice that it fits perfectly. Another mod that I have had to do to my Pimax 8KX to complete it.
Of course this is a first prototype and from this idea optimizations can arise to make it easier, more comfortable and durable. But I think it’s a good idea as a starting point.

A few steps to my custom facial foam:

I have used light air dry children’s modeling paste. When it is dry it has the texture of EVA rubber. It is light, very flexible, but it is not like a foam.

Before starting, I placed a double-sided velcro strap on the shell of the comfort kit.

Mold and spread the dough over the entire surface, putting more material in the areas where you think you need more distance.

Put it on and press a little so that your face molds itself against the putty, adjust productivity and angle to have a perfect vision in a VR environment. When you have that ideal HMD positioning point on your face, take it off. You can repeat the process if you see that you lack material at any point, but if at first you are generous with the putty, you will not miss it, on the contrary, there will be enough left over.

Let it dry for a while before removing the entire comfort kit from the HMD. Any squeeze on the putty will ruin its ideal shape.

When it has a more consistent exterior feel, you can remove the comfort kit from the HMD and let it dry for 24 hours. better in the air and if it is a good day in the sun.

Then trim all the excess, and you will notice that the inside is still soft, it lacks drying. So carefully peel it off the comfort kit and also remove the velcro strips from the foam. They have been marked so that in the end you can stick them in their original position.

To get a total dry, I have needed 2 days. But I have not looked for the ideal lightweight, quick-drying molding material either.
I found this in the Chinese bazaar for € 2.

When you have your mold perfectly dry, stick the velcro strips on their housings with some elastic glue, like liquid silicone for EVA rubber.

Lastly, I have used cotton fabric from a winter thermal shirt. Cut out a good piece of fabric and stick it on the mold with the same liquid silicone, let it dry and 1 hour. Trim all the excess.
Here I could also have covered the edges with the same fabric and give it a more professional touch, but the rush and the desire to try the invention, I have gone the fast way. (this is a good point to optimize).

In summary, I think it is easy, very cheap and gives you everything you need for an ideal position and comfort. Which is a very disputed point about our Pimax.

I look forward to criticism and constructive comments to improve this first prototype, so that everyone can make one as easily as possible. And treat other aspects such as durability, final aesthetics, comfort and above all what will happen when washing it.

Greetings to all.


I wouldn’t say you rushed things as your still prototyping your methods. Very inventive and well done!

Once your comfortable with it being more finalized we can add this to the Guide Category.


Speaking of which if anyone is interested in helping out with the Guide category send a message to @Guide.

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Hey, this is brilliant! Yes, making this both rigid and an exact match, molded to face shape was exactly the right idea, I have been wondering about someone trying this. Winter thermal shirt could be a really great material to use too. Something soft with a few genuine silver threads might be the very best possible result indeed.

nothing moves

I certainly like the idea of that. Even the prototype foam I have from this NOT FINAL 8kX only gets close to achieving that.

I backed Deci Bullz Headphones quite some time ago. Bad decision as they were really bad in all criterias but their molding material was amazing, worked very well, stable, fast and lightweight. Wonder what they used.

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I’m not 100% clear on the reason for putting the velcro on the shell before starting: wouldn’t you know where to put the tape by the shape of the mold? A little more detail on this part would help me, thanks.

Do you have a link for the ‘liquid silicone for EVA rubber’? I’m assuming that this is something that won’t stink: everything that I can think of to use would have some fumes.

-Sorry, probably just being stupid tonight.

For the finishing cover, one of these VR covers might help, especially if you made the appropriate indentations in the mold before it dried. Then maybe the glue wouldn’t be needed for the cover. Hmm, actually I like the idea of having both.

This is a great idea, I think I may have to try it! Thanks for posting and for all the pictures!

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Why silver threads, battling vampires?


Thermal conductivity, and possibly significant antibacterial benefit.


does this not make the facepad a solid block of clay?


Brilliant idea!

I wonder how memory foam would fare as a material.

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Putting velcro before starting has 2 reasons:

  • To prevent the putty from dirtying the other velcro of the comfort kit
  • To have the exact position marked in the mold where you will then stick those same velcro strips.
  • The most important, so as not to add thickness to the mold. Remember that everything you add later and that it was not planned adds thickness and greater distance from your face to the HMD. So if the shape is already made (somewhat dipped) in the mold, when gluing it definitely does not add thickness

I do not have the link, it is a simple liquid glue for crafts, being suitable for children, it does not smell and is not toxic. As it is based on silicone, its finish is elastic.
In the product description, put special liquid silicone for EVA rubber

Heyyy, I see that idea very well, refill the putty with the cover, put everything in the comfort kit, tighten the face and let it dry. Then you already have the mold and adapted to the shape of the fabric cover. It is something more serious, than my first proposal to glue the shirt with silicone, and it is also removable to wash or exchange.
I liked it, yes yes yes, I think it will be the next step for V2.


This would be ideal, but you can’t put your face on it. And making a mold from the mold can already make things very complicated.

But I do not rule it out, make a mold of the prototype that I have shown you with plaster and fill it with this material “Feroca skinfoam 350”
Minute 9, so it doesn’t get heavy.


@Butosai It is not clay, this paste or putty when drying is soft and elastic. And it weighs nothing. But it is much stiffer than foam. But that’s what it’s all about, having some stiffness so that the HMD doesn’t move over your face without having to squeeze it too hard. As it has your shape and is somewhat rigid (but soft and a little soft) it will adapt perfectly.


This is very cool. How soft is that stuff once it dries?And do you have a link on amazon where I can order the stuff?

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Well, I don’t have a link to Amazon for the material. But the putty I used is the one that appears in the description. I believe that by searching Amazon in your country you will find similar material. Air-drying “light molding paste” for children.
As I said, once dry it has a rubbery feel like EVA rubber. The glue is liquid silicone for crafts, special for gluing EVA rubber.


you think something like this would do?

if it is something like that. but I only spent € 2 on the 150 gr pot. and use half. So I think it is cheaper and more practical if you go to a craft site and ask for that putty or modeling paste. Possibly at toy or stationery stores. In my case I bought it in an Asian Bazaar


What is the comfort like during long play sessions? How does it compare to the standard Pimax face foam?

How do you plan to keep it from getting sweaty or deformed in the future?


Using @Chumet process; you could 3dscan the mold and maybe try the 3dprint memory foam filament

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It is very comfortable, it feels somewhat hard but it does not bother anything because it feels like it fits the shape of your face. But the outer coating will have to be of some material that comes a little padded to give it a little more softness to the touch with the face. I am also doubting the durability of this putty, I do not know how long it will maintain its characteristics or when the heat comes if it will stay softer. In long sessions I have not tried it yet. I have only had one test day for 30 min. and then another 30 min. And it doesn’t feel annoying. Only when you remove it does it give the feeling of hardness when it is no longer in its ideal position. For that I have to round the edges and make the fabric cover the entire surface.
If I have launched this proposal early in its development, it is to encourage people to invent a little in parallel and surpass myself in materials. And very interesting proposals are already arriving.
You also have to assess that if it is cheap and quick to create, you can replace it from time to time. Although I would prefer to create one for a long time. Comparing it with the original comfort kit it is much harder, but as I said, having the exact shape of your face does not feel hard to the touch when you have it on. And for me, the original is peeling in the areas of more pressure and it loses that soft coating and the roughest interior foam appears.


That 3D memory foam printing material looks impressive, I will inquire about its price. I have seen that you have to wet it so that it has the characteristics of a foam. But I don’t know if when it dries it is harder again. I have a TPU filament, which is flexible but not like a foam. Maybe giving it very little filling makes it a bit fluffy. What I see more complicated is being able to scan the mold. I do not think that with any application for the mobile I will achieve a good scan with the desired levels of detail. Even if I have a Galaxy S20 + that has a depth sensor and they say it helps. But it is a good way to go, to get the mold digitized. Since if I master a little 3D design and from 3D I could retouch the parts where I see problems and give the whole piece less thickness and then compensate it with a layer of foam or spongy and soft fabric. With this first prototype I see that I cannot add the slightest extra thickener. Lose the correct depth with which you started the mold. Then I would have to make the mold thinner by pressing the face more against the mold and have a wrong vision when you have the HMD on to later trust that it will be corrected with more thickness of padded fabric.

Can you guide me on how to make a 3D scan of my mold? but without having to buy any extra device.

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