Ah! Excellent work! 
I have been wondering about what quick-setting materials there might be for moulding to face in-place without assistance, even half-considering just risking a very patient try with some categorically non-quick-setting silicone or PU foam. Looks like you have it all sorted out.
I found these two products on Amazon, what do you think? Do they look like your stuff? I noticed a comment in one stating that if you want to make it soft again, just add a few drops of water? What would happen to your ‘pad’ if you got it wet?
These two look like the same thing to me…
Modeling Clay Kit: 36 colors
Modeling Clay Kit: 50 colors
@Strydr , If any of those putties is like mine or they look a lot like it.
Here is a video of how it looks on my Pimax and how fluffy it has.
And another of what happens if you wet it, roughly. I see that if the surface layer is soaked in water it tends to dissolve, staining the hands. But I think I have passed the test. The most convenient thing would be that the foam is isolated from the outer fabric to prevent sweat from seeping through and dissolving material from oozing through the fabric. But I think that once the product has completely dried it will not turn into a misshapen dough like when you take it out of its packaging. I believe that the recommendation to wet it when you work it is when it is still soft but begins to lose its elasticity.
I know all this is very freaky and I laugh with all these experiments, but I will get to my purpose. I just want to encourage people to try to experiment and improve this idea so that we get to create an ideal foam and have no further problems.
Don’t even think about injecting polyurethane foam into my face or comfort kit, I tried this to acoustically isolate my cockpit actuators and I bundled it up very fat. It is super sticky to the skin and to any material, then it is too rigid, I thought about it but it is not an option. Silicone is too heavy and it also takes time to dry. There are products that become this material and come in 2 components, there is a video above where they show it. The problem is that you cannot make the mold directly with your face.
I had thought to first make a mold as I described it at the beginning using another quick drying putty and that becomes a resistant material such as clay or porcelain. And with that mold, make the negative in 2 parts and then if you can fill it with those products. But often the total process to obtain a simple more ergonomic foam and then there is still the outer fabric covering
OMG, what heck is that crap?!! I’ve never seen anything like it, I’m going to order some just to play with it!
I figured it dried semi-solid, not like that! Very interesting! Thank you very much for those videos!
It looks like the dye gets released when it gets wet: some of those colors could be interesting! I’m thinking that covering it with a thin plastic wrap like we all have in our kitchens would seal the material, then the cloth cover over it to protect it and your face.
The actual statement went:
“It is super light when playing and when it fully dries; To restore the softness clay, try adding water one drop at a time”
To me, that means a slow absorption rate, so what you said and generally being careful should work fine. In addition, it might be handy to make more than one, just in case. Not to mention that the practice will probably make the second one fit better than the first.
It also makes me wonder if it’s the proper material. Well, we’ll see…
Edit: ordered some, it should be here Wednesday. Dry’ish Thursday, by Friday at the latest I should be able to confirm or not that the stuff I found is the same thing.
I’ll encase it in a solid lump of the stuff. 
The thought was to inject it into a plastic bag, of course, to go between everything, and then add something softer on top, but not only does it expand a lot and would need somewhere to bleed off excess, but would also pick up any crinkles in the bag, and exhibit plenty of other downsides. :7
I’ve done my fair bit of walking around for days with PU that does not wash off my hands. 
If one were to cast, say latex foam in a negative mould, one do of course also have to consider that latex allergy is supposedly quite common. Seems nothing is quite perfect, but I’ll absolutely be on the lookout for the stuff you found. :7
Tbh I don’t have much experience yet with 3dscanning. There are from what I have heard some good aps on the Android store.
If you have one of the Xbox kinects it might work as well.
Once I used this SW, and I managed to reproduce a part of the piece that I wanted, but not all. A bright and uniform environment is needed so that the images taken are centered on the object to be scanned. I just tried it again, but it is not the most accurate I have seen.
Here are some phone aps
I just tried the apk that my S20 + “3D scanner” brings and I can’t believe it:
Now I have to see how it is processed in CATIA V5
That’s really cool!
This way we could use the putty to create a custom literal facial interface, scan it with an app, export the scan and have it 3D printed with memory foam filament!
I am one of the lucky fews where the CK with the thin foam and some infill padding on the temples fits my facial geometry perfectly but anyone that has a smaller or differently shaped head could benefit greatly.
EDIT: Just thinking about it, we could actually take this a step further, although we would need Pimax’s support for this. If we know the ideal distance and angle between lens and iris, we could scan our face directly and calculate an ideal mould that would allow for the perfect positioning of the HMD and take into account all relevant facial features. Baseline would be the CK w/o foam and any adaptation would be calculated as an elevantion from the CK surface = 0.
What do you think?
@PimaxUSA @PimaxQuorra @hammerhead_gal; can you please provide said number in bold?
it’s a good idea. having the 3D of the CK and the Pimax would be ideal. Then you scan your face and put it in the ideal position of distance to the lenses. then using SW 3D you create the geometry of the foam filling in the space between your scanned face and the 3D of the CK. And to print it. This would be the ideal situation for each user. and Scanning a face is easier than a whole object. Since you only need one zone.
Optimizing the first edit:
I have emptied part of the foam by making holes with a soda straw of those that are rigid. Then I have sanded it to give it a more rounded and porous finish so that it allows a better grip of the glue. This time I have used contact glue applying only on one of the faces. I have added a very soft 5mm foam. And I have covered everything with the same cotton thermal shirt fabric. One with a darker color and nailed to the Index.
Now the result is spectacular, just adding that that extra thickness makes you need to squeeze the MAS a little, I hope that everything will give way and little by little you do not need so much pressure to obtain the entire field of vision, now it becomes very blurry on the sides , lack of proximity to the lenses.
What impressed me more every day about this light molding foam. It gives a lot of play in the creation and it works very well. But I have noticed that when punching the holes it was still a little soft on the inside, so the holes fulfill 3 functions: 1- Softer and more elastic, 2- less weight, 3- help to dry the inside.
For those who are going to start doing it @Strydr, when you press your face against the putty, spend a bit, I would say that almost your eyelashes touch the lenses, so then you compensate it with a thin foam coating, before covering it with the cloth.
And as a much better glue, contact glue: Contact glue
Now I think that nobody is going to laugh at the result, everything is more polished and evolved:
!(Also available in spray form, which is practical when dealing with larger surfaces, how ever on earth it is possible to make that sticky snot work in a spray can… :7)
Yes, I had thought about it but in aerosol you have no precision in applying a little in small areas, also I already had a can of these at home. With a brush you apply it and spread it perfectly. At the moment all the material I had at home except the “magic” putty that I bought at a laughable price.
Ah, so you smelled the glue.
I found this doc, should be helpful.
“Accuracy of Portable Face-Scanning Divices for Obtaining Three-Dimensional Face Models: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis”
Best way to share it:(i have no access to Google)
Citation:Mai,H.-N.;Kim,J.;Choi,
Y.-H.;Lee,D.-H.AccuracyofPortable
Face-ScanningDevicesforObtaining
Three-DimensionalFaceModels:A
SystematicReviewandMeta-Analysis.
Abstract:Theuseofthree-dimensionalface-scanningsystemstoobtainfacialmodelsisofincreasing
interest,however,systematicassessmentsofthereliabilityofportableface-scandeviceshavenotbeen
widelyconducted.Therefore,asystematicreviewandmeta-analysiswereperformedconsidering
theaccuracyoffacialmodelsobtainedbyportableface-scannersincomparisonwiththatofthose
obtainedbystationaryface-scanningsystems.Asystematicliteraturesearchwasconductedin
electronicdatabasesfollowingthePreferredReportingItemsforSystematicReviewsandMeta-
Analysesguidelinesforarticlespublishedfrom1January2009to18March2020.Atotalof2806
articleswereidentified,with21articlesavailableforthenarrativereviewandninestudiesavailable
formeta-analysis.Themeta-analysisrevealedthattheaccuracyofthedigitalfacemodelsgeneratedby
theportablescannerswasnotsignificantlydifferentfromthatofthestationaryface-scanningsystems
(standardmeandifference(95%confidenceinterval)=−0.325mm(−1.186to0.536);z=−0.74;
p=0.459).Withinthecomparisonoftheportablesystems,nostatisticallysignificantdifferencewas
foundconcerningtheaccuracyofthefacialmodelsamongscanningmethods(p=0.063).Overall,
portableface-scandevicescanbeconsideredreliableforobtainingfacialmodels.However,cautionis
neededwhenapplyingface-scannerswithrespecttoscanningdevicesettings,controlofinvoluntary
facialmovements,landmarkandfacialregionidentifications,andscanningprotocols.
Those are really impressive results, well done!
Very nice! Make a couple of different thickness versions and you have a ‘product’! When can I buy one? 
I think it is more work than profit, and my face did not match that of the rest. 
