Not a good time to be visiting stores like that in person… besides, ideally I need an online source to get these in bulk.
As things are right now though, I might just have to order these ‘pillar screws’, attach an actual screw to the top, and solder/threadlocker that screw in place.
Mkay… 
Well, it’s not like You have to french kiss anyone to buy stuff is it? 
I visit stores weekly.
Just take Your precautions: wear a mask and/or make sure to clean Your hands after touching anything (or wear gloves)… 
BTW, did we ever figure out what type of metal screw it was that Pimax omitted for all but the first couple of 8KXs?
I received a unit without those screws and would like to have the metal one on place.
It wasn’t a screw but metal hinges that didn’t allow the back of the strap to go low enough.
Yeah it was a screw, I found out it was an M2 6mm flathead.
What is? What are you talking about?
Ah. That is a very different problem.
maybe here?
threaded axle
shoulder axis / screw
screws
Shoulder screws/bolts do seem to be a lot closer to what I am looking for. However, it seems I do not know how to specify that I want the screw head to be the same diameter as the shaft?
That’s what she said…
Uggh. I was afraid this thread might inevitably descent into some such stupidity…
On a more serious note, I still do not have good options to replace these screws…
Asking the same question over and over again is very, very bright though… Jup… 
You didn’t even bother to unscrew it and take a proper picture of it…
Go somewhere where they have screws for electronics or a watch/jewelry shop and bring it… Seriously…
Or ask a Pimax rep directly. You have access to them, right? 
EDIT: This is what they look like:
“Strap link screws” or “Screw tube” or “screw in lug bars” or “screw tube bar rod”
Here an assortment:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Assorted-Screw-Watches-Connect-Silver/dp/B07R5C3R42
A few others:
Thank you. I may buy some of those assortments. Seems they are indeed wristwatch screws. That helps.
Truth be told, there is a reason for that. The Phillips heads already cam out enough I am not sure I will be able to put the screws back safely in if I take them out even once more. Maybe mine were turned tighter than most, or maybe there was more friction… also the last 3D printed hinge I made added too much friction.
So it’s not out of laziness that I am reluctant to unscrew the hinges again, but fear.
Aaaaw shucks, you are too nice now he can go sell his special replacement hinges with new hinge screws 
seriously @mirage335 why have you not bothered doing your own research, and continuously nag in your own thread for people to help you in a not so polite way ?
Fair enough… They don’t look that bad though…
EDIT: On a second look they actually do. Must have been really tight to begin with. Mine weren’t.
I’m sure You already know this, but the key to not stripping Philips head screws is to apply pressure even when unscrewing and to use the exact size screw driver.
Oh, and there’s no reason to tighten them that much. I don’t see why they should come loose by themselves as there’s nothing twisting them.
Well, actually I did more than a few hours of research, and I have spent inordinate amounts of time doing too much research lately. In fact, I am recovering from extreme physical exhaustion right now…
As for not so polite, sorry if that was the case. Not intended.
Yes, admittedly, that is on my mind. However, much more urgent is the inability to test new hinges without risking the headset I have to fit this nice new headstrap now that I made it work rather well…
_
Anyway, seems I missed these. David Kaufman from HacDC pointed out McMaster-Carr, so I decided to do another look (mostly out of despair).
Thanks. Yes, I know, but even with adequate downforce, Phillips head screws have a sharp limit on torque. If that was not the deliberate intention from invention, it certainly became an intended ‘feature’ shortly thereafter.
Over many years I have learned to deeply despise Phillips head screws.
Even if they don’t loosen up on their own, during installation, I find the weight of the strap can make it difficult to completely avoid friction along that long axle. I thought about applying a tiny spot of grease to alleviate this, but worried that might allow the screws to more easily loosen.
The hinges themselves wiggle side-to-side, which is exactly the sort of force that might undo the screws over time. At the wrong time, that could be very bad for the headset. Probably not a problem, but I am not inclined to leave the screws half-way sticking out with no tightening at all… which honestly is what it might take not to cam out those Philips heads.
Personally, I think the use of removable metal screws for the hinges is an improvement, even with Phillips head, but I would have used standard (flat) screw heads, torx, or just about anything else.
Admittedly, I am not good at ‘guess the magic word’ puzzles. Apparently the keyword was “headless”, for headless shoulder screw.
Don’t we all…?
That would probably be a bad idea. The friction is what makes them stay put (not unscrew).
Wow. That’s really, really exaggerated… 
Of course they shouldn’t be left “half-way sticking out with no tightening at all”. I’m just saying they don’t need to be tightened like Your life depended on it…
Agreed, but I guess they didn’t expect their customers to be removing them since there’s no need to normally (You can remove the hinge without removing them - just remove the cowling first and slide it “inwards” towards the lenses) and they can be replaced if the headset is sent in for repairs.