Short of filing off the inner ends of the lenses, so that you can shift them together, without snipping off your nose: Try to add some thickness to the face cushion.
Might ask to check or update the site it shows 55 as is in 60 - 5 Software?
Would be good to add something like
60mm (55mm) - 70mm (75mm) (Software adjustable)
I know this question is old, but has there been any progress or official statement recently? I couldn’t find any.
I sold my 8KX (besides other reasons) because i could not get into the sweetspot. I tested the Reverb G2 and everything is okay and no eyestrain, but software options are limited as well as the FOV - so i will send it back.
After that i remembered there was the “Extreme IPD Mod” where you take everything apart and did it with my 5k+, as i couldn’t get rid of eyestrain for it as well, since 2 years and utilizing every software option like IPD/vertical offset, different foams, tilting and so on. Luckily i did not damage anything and it’s working, puh So now i can get the lenses to a point where they can physically touch each other (i removed the fabric cover as well). My eyestrain is gone and i am perfectly in line with the sweetspot for both eyes now. As others have mentioned, the IPD mechanism could have been designed for lower IPDs in the first place. At least 2-3 mm or so.
I remember @PimaxUSA mentioning that he get’s the 8KX into the sweetspot regardless of his low IPD <60mm. My IPD is 62mm, but my face shape seems to require lower IPDs
Any chance we get a lower IPD version or a new HMD with wider IPD range soon? Or maybe just different lenses, as they are quite easily replaced? @PimaxQuorra@PimaxUSA
I think the lowest physical mechanical IPD achievable is around 66 or 67mm on the 8kx. I dialed it down to what Pimax says is the lowest which is 60mm but when I measured my own 8kx and found it to be 66.5mm. This would explain why so many people have issues with being able to get the sweet spot for both eyes.
I cracked open the shell of my p8kX the other day, with that mod in mind, but balked at not spotting, nor feeling, any obvious tabs or levers on that first flex ribbon cable connector from the front cover (I assume it’s a ZIF jobbie…). Any advice on that, as well as subsequent matters, in case I muster the courage to have another go? :7
I was somewhat alarmed, btw, by how the unused smaller end segment of the cable was just dangling there, up against the sheet metal.
…was surprised to see heat pipes in there, too. :7
There are reasons why that is as it should, which are down to the canting of the lenses, but I’ll try to not ignite yet another debate on that.
Should be a quite obvious black lever at the back of the cable connector what’s a ZIF jobbie?
I can support you as far as I can, but keep in mind I’m not really an expert on electronics. But I’m at least a bit familiar with small electronics and got the basic tools at home
If you get to the point of disassembling the IPD mechanism you should avoid touching the metal rods too much or use gloves. They are lubricated with grease and I messed up the sponges between lens frame and glass window with this grease. Now, if I move the lenses, I’m smearing the grease all over this glass window again (I noticed that too late…) but I don’t have to move lenses anymore, so no problem
The other steps are just a matter of caution and patience. The fabric cover was quite hard to remove, but once you get one side going its easy. Without the cover you get the lowest IPD possible.
Luckily I had some plastic tools available from a phone battery replacement kit. Without those I wouldn’t have kept going and I highly encourage to use those over any metal tool. Especially for removing the lenses, but afterwards I don’t think I had to remove them well, it’s easier for sure to cut the IPD mechanism without damaging the lenses.
Not only do I see the lever; I also see a connector for the forked-off narrower cable terminus, which does not exist in my headset - that cable end just flaps loose; I guess whatever signals passes through those lines are no longer needed in the 8kX, and hopefully they are free at the other end… :7
(Man… They even had to erase Sjef’s username… sigh)
The stocking has been off since quite a while ago (wish I had known beforehand where the tabs were, though), the lenses have already been out and put back in again, and an old driver’s licence served well as prying tool, to separate the shell halves. :7
I am more worried about how much more delicates need to be plucked apart, just in order to get to the sliding mechanism, which is really already open to the sky from the “face side” – really wish one could take it out from that side…or if I could only reach behind the the threaded part of the rod, to do the necessary carving; As far as I can see, the back side of the “nut” it goes into, is the only part that immediately collides with something, and I don’t think I need more than the rough 1 to 1.5mm I’d get from doing that one alone… :7
Thanks for your tips!
I’m going to make this 8kX useable, yet. :7
(Wednesday is another holiday, I believe; Maybe I’ll risk putting the patient under the knife again, then… :7)
Unfortunately not that I have heard. Yes he has always seems to be the exception on the low ipd compatibility(must be physiological\face shape) even with og headsets.
It is ashame the team maybe didn’t explore the extreme ipd mod as it seems it just needed the pot switched out with a pulse encoder.
The only “delicates” are the ribbon cables, the ones for the front cover and the ones located around the metal frame on the inside (i think 6 in total). If those are loose, you just need to remove some screws and you can lift off the whole metal frame/lens/IPD part.
From my amateur point of view, one just needs to adapt the plastic guides that are holding the metal rod in line and as you said, use broader pot for the IPD slider or a pulse encoder (whatever a pulse encoder is )
Really a shame. I want to use the 8KX so badly and i would forget my “Pimax Experience” that drove me nuts in the last months, if this IPD problem would be solved…