Do you know of anything that is near the cable itself? Like do you run the cable near a cell phone, any bluetooth devices, etc?
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That looks interesting save the price is out of this world. For that price it should make the headset wireless. 
Imho I think the cost is too high to just try; unless they Will allow a return and a reasonable amount of time to test. At that price if it works would only be for those whom have fairly deep pockets. Which may fit a simmer.
I would be curious if you could simply get a usb3 extension with an external extra ground.
Depending on your pc case you might be able to add a ground wire to the mounting screw to the case.
i’m not running it past anything that is turned on, just the usual bunch of cables that come out of the back of the PC.
one of the side effects of VR is that the back of the computer is now the front - everyone must have their machines turned round to avoid wasting 2 feet of cable length.
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I agree - especially if you have a motion rig, it’s a big issue because you need more length. With the original cable i just barely had enough. Thats why i started to use the optical cable instead.
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My SFX-100 has never had any black out effect on my 8kX (shielding is non existent really ) only grey outs from EMI when touching it. I added 4 big ferrites on the cable to remove what is there. After those were added and cables sorted (there’s still minor EMI so dont cross or keep near to USB etc ! Even keeping the drivers on the same electric circuit causes massive usb hub issues without mains emi filter) + a mains emi filter in front of the drivers.there was no issues. Both standard and optical cable.
4x of these 240-31 with 4-5 loops clears most FT240 AMIDON / FAIR-RITE FERRITE CORE MATERIAL 31,43,52,61,75 | eBay
If you got factory shielded motors on a SFX i would open them and check if there are two ground connected to the motor shield. That is what most likely is causing a ground loop if there is one. The copper with no plastic on it should be cut then isolated to make sure its not touching and only connect to the driver. Plenty of people has that issue as they are assembled wrong.
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You have a very good point actually. I took an EMI Sensor i bought on amazon and noticed that the right side seemed to show EMI being emitted alot more than the left side of my rig so maybe it was done incorrectly from shao at PT-Actuators. I’ll open them up and check it.
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Support has written to me and said MULTIPLE times to try 75hz instead of 90hz because at 90hz they’re using DSC to make it work. Seems like they’re aware 90hz is fairly unstable right now also - just giving everyone a heads up @Heliosurge
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If we wait for Nvidia to fix the problem we are ruined. 
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It started long before we got 90hz so i highly doubt that.
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I agree. So far i rerouted the cable over the ceiling and now it seems to work. Will continue testing.
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So far testing with my cable over the ceiling with cable hooks and it works PERFECTLYYYY. No blips, no blackouts. I plugged back in the grounding cable and tried it like that and it works perfectly fine.
Support wants me to test 114hz upscale mode - but i hate using that mode since it’s blurry. I guess this is helping them narrow down the problem inside the headset.
At this point I am nearly positive the 8kx’s controller/pcb/internals are more susceptible to EMI and Ground Loops than their other headsets. They may find better internals to use and protect against this later, but i guess we’ll be stuck in the dust unfortunately.
Hanging the cable over the ceiling with these hooks is ugly and looks almost like a hospital drape lol, but it works since the cable is not touching anything at all.
Anyone having these blackouts, i suggest looking closer at your situation a bit and try to suspend the cable itself over head not touching your floor. I assume even a regular floor can carry some kind of signal that can interfere with the 8kx at this point…
Of course it has only been 2 days, but from last week when i was having 1 blackout/cutout every 30-40 minutes, this is very promising. I will continue trying it and if i can go 3-4 weeks without issue, then i can positively say that it’s fixed. As of right now, i’m 99.9% sure the ground loop was the issue.
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Suspended cable shown above not touching anything until it goes into the PC and HMD on the other end
This is the ground cable i had drilled into the platform it’s plugged just into the 3rd pin (ground only) - the cable touching the aluminum profiles of the bottom platform was causing me all these issues because the headset isnt properly earthed so it caused a difference in the currents from what i understand.
Bad shield/ground on the headset…
Full picture below
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Looks like its not done. How crazy they told me theyre “shielded”. I guess that means just the wire is shielded down the length but not actually grounded.
So which wire is supposed to have a ground wire attached to it?
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By the way that bunched up copper at the top, is actually the copper shielding of the wire going down the outside, that’s just the end of it bunched up like that… So i should connect a wire there and attach it to the ground screw like you did - is that what you mean?
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One other thing. I have this 2nd ground from the driver side though. So it shouldve been on both sides i assume since theres a connector in the middle it doesnt follow all the way thru the length of the cables.
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Use a multimeter. I presume these are DC voltage? If so the negative is ground.
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Id say it is correct but its far to exposed and very likely to hit the casing. Isolate that exposed (Shielding) wire with some tape on the motor side and you are fine. Don’t let it touch the casing. They are both connected on the same crimp to the driver and that is correct and its grounded. The orange should be connected on both sides but the other shielding one should only be connected to one side or it will loop.
I was informed of this and don’t have electric degree so don’t ask me the specifics but it all makes sense and works
Apologies for 10 million edits i just woke up 
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These are 220v Ac so I wouldn’t go poking them with the power on
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Cool & thanks are there 120 versions? As Mike is in North America and we mainly have 120v save for things like stoves, laundry driers that require special plugs.
These AASD15A Drives/servos work on both 110 and 220 actually - Just a different plug needed to use for each different outlet and a different setting in the drives to switch it.
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