I do not count out two different designs just yet. But yeah you may be right, it is the easier solution after all.
Connectors does not only break by pulling them in and out, all kinds of stress effects them.
On the touch/stick thing I will probably go one of each anyway after some suggestions from others, or yes I will go with a 4 set.
If something breaks I rather have something that is somewhat easy to open and repair.
But back to the point of the thread, any good suggestions on latching mechanisms?
Magnets are really good for keeping stuff in place together with some notches to keep it in the right direction, but I have no clue as to how to remove the modules then.
Another solution would be some kind of spring loaded latches that āhook inā into the module and can be opened by pressing in ābuttonsā on either side of the āheadā of the controller.
A good placement for those would be on the same position as the buttons but on the side.
Trackpads do not have four buttons. They have a single switch, exactly like a stick. The virtual buttons are calculated combining the single switch and the trackpad x,y coordinates. This is also how a thumbstick operates when simulating virtual buttons.
Iāve been thinking about this and I think this huge socket would just complicate and limit the design unnecessarily.
IMO you could make the design simpler, lighter and more flexible if you make the entire front knob part detachable.
The handle would have a notch that you would slide the front part into from above, so it would be impossible to slide out if you hold it normally, but not too difficult if you pull from the bottom.
( BTW, did you think about how you would get the track-pad out of the socket in your design? )
The socket is not as huge as you might think. The model i used is the original Valve Knuckle model and the Socket is in the size of the Valve Knuckle Touchpad so just big enough to hold the Thumbstick + PCB.
The only components that need to be in the socket would be a Thumstick like this
a Pogo Connector + cabels to connect it to the PCB
and maybe 2 or 4 small magnets to hold the socket in place so it doesnāt fall out if you turn your Knuckle on the head.
So actually a fairly simple Design with very few components in it that could break.
If you would do it like you suggested you would have to replace the whole Trigger unit + all itās Sensors and the other electronics that may be stored in there. Basically you would have to replace half the Controller which is a lot more expensive.
Let me see if i can model the socket so you can see how it would look like inside.
In the first pic you see the Thumbstick module resting on 4 Struts. In the bottom of the 4 Struts there are 4 neodym magnets located so the Socket will hold securely to the controller. (You can see them in the second picture, those grey dots)
Below the PCB there is the Pogo spring loaded Connector.
The Second pictures shows the Socket from below where you can see the magnets and the Pogo Connector for conneting to the Controller.
Now you are onto something, thanks for the renders, just need to add some notches on the sides to keep it aligned.
Still the problem on how to remove the module from the controller though.
Thinking out loud here but would a āpinā from the bottom be able to push out the module? Or is the entire bottoms space taken up by the trigger?
So that would leave the battery compartment, about 70% of the sensors, the strap, and part of the body as the main unit. That doesnāt really seems like a smart solution, more than half the tech would be in the module.
Yes i am still thinking about how to release the modules but i have several ideas including the pin from the bottom but since i donāt know anything about the internals of the Valve Knuckle that would be only 1 option.
Hmm yeah it is a bit difficult to design without that info.
Here you have a basic exploded view, it is missing part of the shell, but you might be able to figure it out
Looks like there is a big Knuckle shaped PCB below the Trackpad so unless there is a hole in it i donāt think the Pin would be an option. That is unless someone is willing to use a Drill
It looks like it got a small hole in the middle of the PCB, maybe to small, but with some will and Vaseline you can wiggle something in
Seriously though, It is probably possible to fit something in somewhere, traces can be moved.
Just a minor update but i just noticed offsetting the Pogo Connector would be a better idea because it saves some build height and makes it easier to acccess.
The argument for replacing it if it breaks is a bit moot. I have yet to have a touchpad or thumbstick break in all my gaming days, with 2 brothers, from the ps1 to now. Obviously it happens but does it happen enough for pimax to invest in the extra cost of tooling, design, packaging and so on that would be needed to make this interchangeable unit? Even if you say ābut I will buy both for when I want to swap!ā thereās not going to be enough of a profit in it for them for the occasional breakage and small group of people who want to be able to swap on the fly. It also adds extra modes of failure to the controller making it MORE likely that something will go wrong.
KISS is a well used design concept for a reason. It makes more sense to focus on making the controller a copy of knuckles for exact feature parity and to drive the cost down so people buy it from pimax instead of valve. The fact they are working on a thumb-stick version at all is amazing given the time constraints and how it will impact the design and manufacture process. I would think it would benefit everyone for them to focus on making a design thatās robust, can compete with the knuckles on price and not throw more features in the pot. Just think of the first day you open your new interchangeable controller, and it rattles because it has a detachable module. Or you drop it and the module pops out damaging the pins meaning you have to get a new one anyway. Or you take the module out, and when you go to put it back in you twist a pin and the module no longer works. Making it detach just makes it more likely to break.
Iām with you on all of it, noone has still convinced me of the pros on modular compared to the cons.
Just joining in with input on the module for fun.
@Soul Yeah just being able to repair it would be enough. Iāll bring out my iFixit toolkit and a soldering iron.
you could make the design simpler, lighter and more flexible if you make the entire front knob part detachable.
