DISCLAIMER Opening up your HMD WILL void your guarantee!! Also it’s very easy to damage your HMD, so unless you have experience with opening hardware like phones, you probably should not even try this.
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And the panel:
Yes it’s a 5.5 inch QHD panel. Not sure who made it, can’t seem to find any info on those numbers it shows
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So what you do is …
Remove the foam. Then just remove all screws you see. Then you can remove the rubber part.
As you can see in this photo, the 2 parts of the outer shell are connected via four ‘pins’ that are screwed:
And here are the screws, in the red circles:
So you have to remove those 4 screws to be able to split open the outer shell. After you removed those 4 screws you can enter something sharp between them and carefully apply pressure. After it opens somewhat stick a credit card between them and split them that way.
After you’ve split the outer shell, you’ll see that you need to disconnect those ribbons cables. It’s actually not hard but you have to be VERY VERY careful, cause it’s SO easy to damage those cables! So what you do first is flip up the black part of the connector, as you can see in this photo:
(so flip it up from the back)
After that you can simply pull out the cable, with almost zero force. Again, be very very careful here, a little misplaced force and you WILL damage your cable.
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Brave heart!!! 
Can you take some photos of the motherboard? I Hope you will be able to reassemble it after?!
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How close to the panels meet each other with minimum IPD set?
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My understanding is that only the lenses move when you adjust the IPD. The image on the panel is shifted in software.
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The panels are touching each other almost. Like neal says, the lenses move over the panels. The panels never move.
That’s another challenge 
Not sure yet. My HMD stopped working that’s why I even dared doing this. But when opening the HMD I saw that they didn’t connect one cable correctly, it was a bit lose, so I have SOME hope that this was what caused the problem. However putting it all together is now a new challenge
But first I’m going to do what I’ve wanted to do since day 1 and and that is find out more about the panel usage : how much of the 5.5" can you even see through the lens…
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Time to really do some pixel peeping here even have a real SDE measurement
I’m on the SX170328076B-R1-5.5QHD-72-L search, but like you said it’s a empty void…
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is there a chance to get them some mm closer together?
You mean the lenses? I wonder if you did this that the distortion profile would be off since the hmd would not know you moved the lenses
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yes, i mean the lenses, because i need 3 - 4 mm to get a perfect sharp image and normal world scale.
I don’t know if this could be done. I wonder if you removed what is stopping the lenses from getting closer (if this is what is happening) if the dial will go further down and continue to adjust the distortion profile.
Looks as though they use most of the panel apart from the corners and a few mm outer edge , wonder whether it will be possible to diy some good oled panels into the headset down the line
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I don’t think so. You’d probably need a different screen controller
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i wrote pimax a support ticket but hwo knows when i will get a answer, so i wonder if the solution would be so easy. Is there space left for maybe 4 mm between the lenses?
This could give you a good start https://community.openmr.ai/t/pimax-native-projection-and-pre-lens-warp-transformation/15775.
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Awesome as always SJ! Hope you get it working. If you do can look into better panels like maybe the 120hz hdr razer phone panels & if the Analogix chip can be swapped with thr new series. 
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So this suggests 5.7" panel in 8k.
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Bridgechip is agnostic as the same chip is used in both 5k & 8k.
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