Yeah, a big part of the price is the newly-introduced GDDR6 ram. After a while, the component prices should drop and then the retail should follow. The problem boards seem to be mostly nVidia brand 2080 Ti; 3rd party boards seem to fair better. Tom’s hardware speculates that the memory is running too hot (above spec), so that is something which is fixable by a better cooling solution.
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The memory might be where the card failures are happening as it apparently runs very hot in that area.
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Yup exaclty. Reports showing them being the hottest components in the new RTX cards.
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To me, it’s abundantly clear that the Turing family was just released way too soon. Definitely rushed. Just look at how many games have RTX or DLSS support… Go ahead and count, I’ll wait 
And then there’s the hardware issues being encountered 
The shops I’m communicating with here in Belgium first told me they expected some cards in on 05/11 (yesterday) but now they don’t even know anymore. What’s even worse, their current pricing has shot up to 1400€ for the absolute cheapest (Inno3D) cards… Sheesh.
On the other end I saw mention of an EVGA black edition that they wanna sell for 999$ So who knows.
I’m gonna wait a little longer too.
Oh btw, for me the i9-9900K is actually instantly available atm here in Belgium.
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It’s supply and demand pushing them stupid prices. Even with no RTX games (I counted lol) and cards dying, people still pay it because they want more FPS. Nvidia can literally sell anything, just as long as it pushes out some more FPS and it’s the newest on the block. Those prices, every single YouTuber and article are shocked at the prices when they were announced…yet people somehow are still buying them, hence the lack of stock. If there were any releases you’d want to wait a little longer on, it’s the RTX family. It’s insane. I’m guessing my Pimax preorder around P1300+ will be Q1, March I’d guess. Then I will look at the cards again, plus newer drivers should be out and maybe, MAYBE some RTX games? haha. From what I understand is RTX have new technology to assist with VR too https://www.roadtovr.com/nvidias-geforce-rtx-cards-bring-new-vr-rendering-features-and-enhancements/
Anyway, I`ll be round yours for waffles and CPU’s 
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Well see I don’t know. One of the shops I asked had received a total of two 2080ti’s since their launch. So it doesn’t mean they’re all being sold out, they’re not even arriving here. And that seems the case with most shops, all of them are still in preorder / delivery unkown stage. Maybe it’s just Nvidia having issues or trying to resolve the high memory temps, who knows.
Btw you mention you know what place you have in the preorder “queue” ? where do you see this? (I preordered in the first hour of the “second” wave so I think I should be fairly early on the list) - but yeah wouldn’t expect it before March either.
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A friend of mine got a Gigabyte 2080 TI last week, dunno if he bought it on a whim or preordered it, knowing him it was a whim though… Also in Belgium…
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Nvidia might have put a quiet recall on any shipments due to the amount of cards failing? 
Could you imagine it though, you preorder a RTX card and wait, spending a considerable amount (ok a stupid amount) and then it either DOA or dies in a few days… I’d be crying if that happened to me, as most people would have sold off their old card and they’d be left without a working PC…
Check your confirmation email for your preorder number. We reckon it starts from P1000.
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Just to chime in, my Zotac Amp! RTX2080Ti so far is holding strong and clocking nicely, guess I got lucky so far.
If anyone in Germany is looking to get an evga 980Ti classified or a modded TitanXP, hit me up!
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Yes I agree, as I have the 8700K and I’m sitting at a stable 5.0 Ghz and noticed a marked improvement from the stock 3.7Ghz speed.
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Aha, I’m P1247 apparently. So if they ship in batches of 200 then I should be in pre order batch 2 
@BlaZ Yeah I didn’t pre order anything, I wanted to wait things out a bit more. There are some pre orders here and there that have trickled in. Maybe your friend is one of those 2 that got their card from that store I talked about earlier But really, they’re not reasonably available, and not for any normal price either
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Hello yanfeng,
is your ZOTAC 2080TI - the AMP version…?
I have a PIMAX 8K and my ZOTAC 2080TI AMP arrived yesterday and the I9 9900 will comes next week - but I am not sure about the board…? Normally I wolud buy the ASUS ROG Strix Z390 F… but than I see your post here.
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here’s some advice,
Voltage should not go beyond 1.35V to be safe, but as long as you’re not going beyond 1.35 (thats a conservative number some people push to 1.4v) then you’ll be okay.
If you increase voltage you can overclock further at faster clocks, but then you get extra heat so you need a good cooling waterblock or aio cooler to compensate.
install HWmonitor, TechPowerUp GPU-Z, CPU-Z and Speedfan (or better buy a fan controller) and keep your temperatures around 60 degrees under load and you’re gold. Up to 80 degrees and you’re still okay but pushing it, intel cpus can generally take up to 90 degrees before things get risky from heat damaging your components.
the heat and voltage is the only real dangerous part of overclocking, and if thats controlled and you have good parts then your perfectly fine to do it without risk of degrading your components if you follow the rules i mentioned.
a good motherboard is required for maximum lanes on your PCI ports and RAM buses to CPU and also because they have heatsinks on the VRMs and better cooling. unfortunately the motherboard can’t monitor its own temperature so a good move to do would be to get a thermal monitoring gun so you can monitor the components of the motherboard if you overclock the cpu to make sure the motherboard VRMs doesnt go over 90 degrees, but considering you are already overclocking to 4.7 you should have a good motherboard designed to take that heat.
if its a gaming motherboard and z390 with good amount of heatsinks it should be fine but do your research on quality, and never skimp out on PSU quality, get at least a 650W gold or platinum rated 80+ power supply for overclocking or risk your computer randomly turning off or throttling because it cant deliver enough power, or worse damaging your components if the power supply shorts from a surge due to lack of surge protection.
turn off turbo setting in bios, or change the multiplier to a lot lower. turbo will end up throttling your CPU clock speed down below 5ghz if you overclock it to 5ghz and don’t modify the turbo multiplier or turn off turbo, because turbo settings when unmodified with an overclock will boost 5ghz to 5.5, and then your cpu will throttle to manage the heat. I personally turn it off but if you want to use it, adjust the turbo modifier to very low.
is your RAM latency low? it should be at around CL15-15-15 for the best performance at 3600-3800mhz but you really need good ram chips to do that.
how fast is your 2080ti clocked at? overclocking gpu clock speed should net you better performance than cpu overclock, but overclocking the cpu to 4.9/5.0 if your gpu is overclocked to 2100mhz might get you more framerate then it does now if your gpu is running at 1800mhz. in any event i don’t see much benefit from overclocking past 5.0/5.1 ghz even if your gpu is overclocked to 2100 because the performance improvement is minimal past that point, but if you want to do it, do it when your gpu is clocked fast enough like 2100mhz so that it will benefit from that 5.3 overclock.
Faster clock speed impacts SPC and IPC so thats why gains are negligible past 5 ghz (for the moment, next generation 10nm chips could go to 5.5 without much impact on IPC and SPC due to having faster base clock speeds)
Configure these settings in nvidia control panel
https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3130/~/setting-power-management-mode-from-adaptive-to-maximum-performance
if you want more performance, buy some thermal pads for your motherboard and delid your cpu, apply Thermal grizzly conductonaut (but this is a conductive paste so you have to be very careful in its application) alternatively use IC diamond, these pastes won’t dry up over 6 months if you use them at high overclocks.
Either leave the IHS unglued or apply a very very thin 1mm or less layer of glue and liquid metal, it should be as thin as possible so that it doesn’t drip, but thick enough that it is reflective and so you can’t see through it or scrape/smear marks… watch this video for more guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9i_ULemBhI.
you can get up to 20 degrees cooler doing this and that gives you more overclock headroom to hit 5.1/5.3ghz stable
Here’s a Zotac 2080ti OC’d to 2160mhz you can definitely do it on your card https://imgur.com/a/qnmBbYZ
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What was the original GHz that was giving you only 76 FPS?
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Battlefield 5 showing off RTX capabilities. Nothing to write home about though. Just shows what could be the future
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Afraid that JayzTwoCents would disagree with you.
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I already watched these videos. I have opted out of RTX cards. My sanity prevailed and I decided to stick with GTX 1080ti. RTX £1300, hardly any real performance improvement, overheating, space invaders, RMA’ing, RTX reduces FPS by 50% (even in 1080p), nope nope nope! No way do I pay £1300 for a 1080p graphics card lol. I get it that people want the best, MOAR FPS, I really do! I was very close to getting one, but as I said by sanity and my bank told me not to haha. It can’t be justified, NVIDIA having a real bad time with these RTX cards that’s for sure. I’m skipping this debacle! 
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You mean you JayzTwoCents would disagree with Thomas Tech Chap
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Of course theres no point going from 1080ti to 2080ti with that cost, but from non-ti 1080 the leap in performance is much bigger. Real time raytracing is just pillow talk by nvidia, I havent even bothered to test it,not sure I even saw such option in Bf5 settings menu.
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According to TTC you enable DXR in Advanced settings to take advantage of the ray tracing.
EDIT: Your FPS will drop significantly with DXR enabled
For the price difference between 1080 ti and 2080 ti Im not sure 2D gamers will get theirs moneys worth. However if you need to squeeze those last 10+ or _ FPS from you VR headset and you have the deep pockets then get your credit card out…
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