Did you have same issues with other Pimax models before? I read that you have 5k too?
No problem hope you find a solution. I also have a small IPD and didnât find much help holding the headset in my hand and moving back and forth - so I almost gave up. But I found a definite difference when actually comparing the fitted cowlings.
Itâs still not perfect, thereâs a slight blur when looking ahead - but now itâs a small difference and a minor issue, compared to being near unusable with the Comfort Kit.
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I did consider it, but decided I was too lazy to attempt producing some photos of half-decent quality, figuring words would suffice, should questions come up. 
Once one actually look at it, itâs all very tidy and minimal, though, but I didnât pay attention to what was on any of them boards, nor their function, except for the inevitable: âwhoa, thatâs a lot of capacitors crowding that one little board on the sideâ reaction. :7
It is pretty much like on the old p5k+ pictures, except with the addition of a heat pipe on either side, which takes heat from a mainboard chip right under the top strap hoop on top, down to the RF shields that back each display panel, letting those act as heat sinks. These pipes are flanked by the hand controller radio tranceiver lego bricks.
One ribbon connector for the lighthouse sensors in the front shell half connects at the top - this forks into two parts, only the wider one of which is used - the other just flaps free.
Then, from the back half, you have one cable from each each side, from the audio sockets, and one from the USB port on the bottom. These are stuck down with glue, which can be a bit nerve wrecking, but they do come off unscathed, when patiently rolling a screwdriver shaft beneath them, giving them all the time they need to peel off without applying excess force.
The main assembly is set into the back shell half with three small screws that go directly into plastic on each short side, and four machine thread ones on each long side. I am not sure what the heads on these are, because neither my ph00 nor ph000 was a good fit, which left me struggling during reassembly, to get the two at the top, which are deepest recessed, and partly blocked by the heat pipes, into place - I would most certainly starve, were I to try to meet any quota at Pimaxâs assembly line . :7
My greatest worry was actually with something as simple as a pair of retaining tab that sticks out from each lens shuttle, and kind of keeps the top and bottom rods in place. The bottom rods, one could simply pull out to the sides, but lifting out the top ones, which drive, and have gears at the ends, involved either cutting the tab, or an uncomfortable amount of bending. (I did the latter, without seeming worse off, for it).
Sorry, no pics, so I suppose it didnât happen. :7
Not the physical limits of the potentiometer itself, but one can physically offset the linkage between the pot and the lens shuttle that pulls its slider along with itself.
Then one can set oneâs corresponding software offset once, and changing lens spacing will be detected without further manual input.
(EDIT2: âŚalthough, there was a millimetre left to slide on the pot, at the low end, on my unit at least, so thatâs why I only filed off as much as needed to take advantage of that, and in that respect it is just as you wrote.)
On second thought, though, I think I would not fill in the âoldâ slot with epoxy, like I suggested, and make a new one next to it, because then my gained low end range would be taken right away from the top end.
I should instead just widen the hole, which would retain the top end range, at the cost of removing a little bit of user friendliness; The increased dead band would mean Iâd need to apply the software offset when decreasing lens spacing, but reset it to zero when increasing. :7
EDIT: As for dust seal⌠The P8/5k series has a novel design, where each screen is sealed in a box, with a flat pane of transparent plastic on top, forming a sealed unit in itself, and on top of which, in turn, the lenses slide, set into shuttles (EDIT3: âŚwhich are wedge-shaped, setting the lenses canted relative to the screens â they are canted 10° from parallel to your face, but then the screens are canted an additional 9°, or so).
âŚso removing the lens shuttles, which is necessary to file the âfoot restsâ of their sliding beds down, will expose the âsensitiveâ fresnel back side of the lenses, and the flat pane, but not the display panels.
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i found the solution at lastâŚ
I sold my 8kx
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I did have the same issue on the 8K and 5K+. From what I can remember I do have the SAME symptoms with the 8KX⌠slightly out of focus on both eyes, eye strain that come on after a few minutes, and also something just looks off inside the HMD, had the same problem on all Pimax headsets except for the Pimax 4K.
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Thats how I fixed my 5K+ and 8K 
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Well I decided to tackle this âExtremeâ âEnter at your own riskâ IPD Mod. I have made it this far in the process, see pic. Im guessing its time to split the cases? I believe you have to apply pressure in just the right places and , I hate to use the word pry, buy gently pry with an electronics plastic separator tool, Ill have to improv this tool. So am I on the right track. Any advice for getting the case apart, thx!
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Try to press a little near a corner. The shell is thin and flexes easily, to get the seam to gape open juuust a little bit. Then insert the edge of an old credit card or something into that gap, and slide it all the way around the seam, to separate it, producing a gentle pop here and there, where there are latches. After that, you should be able to part the halves without any difficulty.
Mind the flex ribbon cable between the front half shell, and the main circuit board.
Flip the black plastic lever that runs the length of the rear of the connector up 90 degrees, to disengage the cable - the plastic is really thin, so you may want to try to lift gently on both ends of the lever, rather than in the middle.
Some of the connectors are secured with a strip of tape on top; These are easy to peel off, and fold to the side, for putting back when you are done.
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Welp, I finished up the Extreme IPD mod if you will. I can say that my image is much sharper, so sharp I can see pixels if I look close enough. I still have to play with the IPD offset some to see if I can dial out the eye strain, though initial adjustments have knocked my âeye strainâ down about 50%. I have a headache from performing this mod so right now is not the time to be messing with it 
! I took about 40 pictures of the process and I will be making a post in the near future for a descriptive tutorial for the mod. I will say that 8KX has more obstructions than the 8K/5K+ or at least I ran into more than were talked about in the other posts. Also I think I found a way to keep the IPD board mount adjust intact. Anyhow heres finished productâŚ
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How much closer were you able to get them together?
I donât know why Pimax couldnât have just done this in the first place.
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I didnt take a measurement of before and after. The lenses cannot get any closer, I removed every obstruction. Now both lenses are side by side. I have a small IPD and I didnt need this much but I didnt want to close it up for surgery then find out later I needed just a little bit more adjustment.
Yes it make no sense! They way they were in the stock locations, I was NEVER able to get a clear image, was always blurry. 
Now with the 5K+ and 8K I at least had a clear image. With the 8KX, my eyes were never in a sweet spot, after the âextreme modâ my sweetspot is huge.
What is your IPD???
I dont know my measured IPD but when using my Index and/or G2 I am comfortable around 62, the mod gave the 8KX another 5mm at least
I know it can sound stupid but Iâve seen many people (include me but using the og foam/gasket it doesnt bother) using the headset slightly tilted left or right.
When I watch videos I recorded I noticed that I often had the headset slightly tilted but it didnt bothered me and I didnt feel it was not right.
I just saw a video from someone with a Pimax on his head and the headset is not correctly aligned.
So this might happen to many people actually, the feeling of the headset sitting correctly can be wrong.
Using the confort kit (and even worse with the tick foam) this can lead to serious ipd issue/eye strain/ and kick one the eyes out of the sweetspot, with the og foam/gasket the sweetspot is so big that is should not cause issue.
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Hi stixver,
I wonder if you solved this problem by adjusting pupil distance later on?
Regards,
Apple
I have to go back into the headset to solve an issue with the slider. I Effed it up by accident. After I get it fixed (I hope) Ill reply back here
Hope your problem will be solved soon.
Apple
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