i was not the one that mentioned oneshape, i think that is @Teigue. I’m using fusion 360.
I have a custom built by myself coreXY printer, designed myself as well based on some existing designs & built from parts from lot of different aliexpress shops.
32 bit smoothieboard with compiled marlin + 1800 steps XY motors & 900 steps 2 Z motors
It can print much faster than 200mm/s but extruder doesn’t cope with speed on thick layers (only thin ones) + it can be a problem on such speed with different object shapes where plastic doesn’t cool enough & it leads to warping + some other issue like steps missing if it will create a blob & a carriage will bump into it on such a big speed so it won’t have a chance to melt it properly.
But some simple geometric object can be easily print at 200+mm speed on 0.2mm layer height
and I have solid state relay for heated bed & 24V PSU which helps a lot with acceleration, hold torque & temperatures times.
This all stuff is controlled by raspberry pi 3b+ model with octoprint system installed through exposed web/mobile interface, really handy
This is really old video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNZ3lnUmOg0&t=51s
I had prusa i3 but had some issues with it, it was ok for first 3d printer but I wanted more fast system that time so I printed initially all parts in abs & continiously was modding this printer & still doing it from time to time if I have mood lol
very cool, hope you’re using it for more than just printing benchies
last year I mostly modding my HMDs & some useful tools like charging stations, cases for electronics etc & for sure printer mods as well, sometime something for vehicles (like mounting stuff etc). It’s handy in daily use to have a printer. Also lenses adapters are great.
Btw I never printed even a single benchy, just saw a lot on youtube haha
I’d only use the Dremel on the metal, not the plastic. I’ll reserve judgement until I get my 8KX. I might not even need to make any changes. I’d only mod it if I need to. And if I screw up, (as you said) I can always ask for the plastic hinge as a replacement. Another option is a friend who has a 3D printer, which can use any type of filament, including high-temperature ones, like nylon.
By the way, Hammerhead is a “she”, not a “he”.
Theres the post in case anyone didnt see it about replacing your hinges for the plastic ones that they had originally. It’s also now notated in the weekly update. Even the pics from hammerhead show how high the angle is with the metal hinges.
@Teigue just got time to print your hinges from thingiverse tonight. at 100% they’re definitely too big, mostly a problem around the hinge side where the material is too thick to fit around the metal rod and prong part which is a bit too big. I’ll try to get some pictures tomorrow.
but you printed the plastic variant right?
i dropped all 4 files on the buildplate, so yeas… probably
Also on thingiverse there is video which describes how to change the angle & diameter of the prong, if you don’t mind please try to adjust it according your plastic strap variant & tell the number or at least point exactly where the problem & how much it should be changed, coz it’s a bit not clear for me, I assume it couldn’t pass through the hole in SMAS strap right? where 2 protrusions are.
Or you can fit it inside but the default cap can’t be secured? Or prong is too thick & strap can’t rotate again the hing prong axis
around the hinge side where the material is too thick to fit around the metal rod and prong part which is a bit too big. I’ll try to get some pictures tomorrow.
Sorry ignore my above message, seems I got you, so the metal rod is the HMD flap connector which we used to detach & attach hingres to, so I assume the “hook” of the hinge which connect to the HMD is a bit thick & Mike didn’t test it as well.
Just let me know how much, can you use your knife & try to fit those though, just want to know how the comfort is with modified hinges
i think mike was doing some tests where he was scaling the thing (uniformly?) to 95%
this is my stl: mayby try and print it to compare?
In the mean time, here’s a few pictures: (measures on your print just in case my printer makes them bigger)
I left the last print at 100% scale. Yes it was a slightly tight fit for me, but it fit. It was manageable.
yeah, that was not fitting for me at all. but it can be the printer.
edit: or they changed the strap itself as well
Try to print a scaled down version slightly. I did test some at 90, 95, and 97%, just to see how they fit. They all worked the same, just gotta find the size that fits best.
you measurement shows that you printed metal hinge version, it has 12.5 length of the cap’s prong, while plastic variant should have 11.3 or even 11.1 mm length which will fit your strap.
Regarding the hook which connects to the HMD itself through metal rod it’s the same for both hinges, so it’s too thick I guess & I just need to do it slighly thinner, but I have no X, if you tell me what outer diameter will work fine it will help a lot, I used 3.5mm diaterer for inner one, but have no clue what margin it allows for the outer one, I did the hinge more solid coz SMAS looks heavy, just to have the hinge more realiable, so trimming a bit won’t hurt
i printed all 4 of the they looked the same so i thought you might have uploaded two sets of the same by accident, i expected for the hinge to look like the metal versions shape.
i’m using 3.5mm on the inside as well, 1.5mm for the wall there, tapering down to make it easier to to hook.
and looking closer i can see the prong is smaller on one set. i didnt expect that to be different so i didn’t look close.
Its not good. The Vive DAS is much better. I just dont know about how the audio would work then. The Vive Das uses one plug in, the 8kx two. I want seperate left and tight channels.
From what I’ve read elsewhere I’m fairly certain that you will still get stereo sound when plugging a headset into only one of the ports.
well with the plastic hinges, i think it’s pretty awesome.
I got my upgraded 8K-X yesterday, too.
And indeed, the very first impression of wearing it - still offline, not connected - was horrible, too: Already the weight of the strap itself made the whole headset so heavy and unused to wear, compared to my former 5K+, I was in doubt on how long I would be able to play without having trained neck muscles
But the absolute fun “killer” was the back of the strap and the knob…:
I am cockpit and sim VR-player only, playing all my VR games such as Project Cars, Elite Dangerous, Truck Sim’s and some RPG’s sitting only.
… and that damn sh** knob already touches the back of my chair while sitting “normally”, making it impossible to lean back comfortably and relaxed while playing.
So after having played and tried the new HMD for two hours, next thing I did was to fix the 5K+'s “cheap” Velcro strap to the 8K-X - which I think is the most comfortable and best strap for cockpit-sim-VR-players in my opinion. And I don’t need any second best built-in audio headphone solution in the strap itself since I still prefer using my noise-cancelling, closed beyerdynamic headset
So since then, the 8K-X and I might become new best friends.
Still having a couple of other little optimization issues, but hopefully, I might be able to solve them in the upcoming weeks
@PimaxVR, Pimax staff: Suggestion
Please consider including the optional Velcro strap in the 8K-X package as well so users might change it directly if the MAS feels uncomfortable for them.
I was lucky having one from the 5K+ so I had no need to be disappointed and displeased with the MAS longer than those first two hours But I know, I would still be if I had to either live with it or urgently buying one from somewhere else, especially as the 8K-X does cost a lot of money - and for that money, I really expect a more or less perfect product.
Including an additional, optional Velcro strap in the package certainly won’t cost that much - 5 $, 10$ …? Purchased in large quantities by a company such as Pimax probably even less.